{"id":375,"date":"2021-07-28T15:54:03","date_gmt":"2021-07-28T14:54:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/?post_type=product&#038;p=375"},"modified":"2021-08-16T14:20:22","modified_gmt":"2021-08-16T13:20:22","slug":"bob-pcb-parts","status":"publish","type":"product","link":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/product\/bob-pcb-parts\/","title":{"rendered":"BOB pcb + parts"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Update 16 August 2021 23:07<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Lots of folk have read the Radcom article and have been wanting the board+parts. \u00a0\u00a0 I have placed an order for more parts and these have been ordered as &#8220;back-orders&#8221; to be posted when the parts arrive next week.<br \/>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>These have now all been spoken for.\u00a0 I appreciate it is frustrating but this is just a hobbyist helping out others and I daren&#8217;t take more orders until I am on top of these latest backorders.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>I estimate that no more orders can be placed until 20th August but will keep you updated. In the meantime I appreciate the many positive comments I have received.\u00a0 There is obviously an unmet need in the amateur radio world for high speed overvoltage protection.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>PCB (Rev 1_1) and all the parts required to make a\u00a0 working BOB.\u00a0\u00a0 You solder them yourself. \u00a0 It will trip if the power supply voltage is\u00a0 greater than 15\/15.5\/16V.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 By changing a few resistors you can change these\u00a0 trip settings &#8211; see the<a href=\"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/home\/projects\/bob\/\"> documentation<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Short-circuit trip values are set by R1. In order to protect a 20-22 amp HF rig use 1.5 milliohms or for a VHF rig up to 70W use 3 milliohms. Some rigs <a href=\"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/miscellaneous-radio-and-electronics-e-blog#inrush\/\">(Yaesu FT991 for example<\/a>) will draw 70 amps plus for a millisecond or so. You might want to experiment with a resistor of 0.5 milliohm or to dispense with overcurrent protection by using thick wire, or braid in place of a resistor.\u00a0 Regardless, you should always use ordinary fuses as recommended by the manufacturer.<\/p>\n<p>There are no connectors included.\u00a0 They are relatively expensive and not everyone wants them.\u00a0 I do have some left from the original project too and you&#8217;ll find them listed further below but for many folk, wires can easily be soldered either to the large 3mm diameter through holes or the smaller 1.8mm diameter through holes.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>The parts are delicate and I am selling parts &#8220;as is&#8221;, no warranties nor guarantees. I am not a retailer &#8211; just a hobbyist. These items have passed through my hands from RS Components or\u00a0 Mouser and they should be considered as used items although none have been anywhere near a soldering iron<\/em><\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>There is sufficient documentation on this site to build the board but there is no step by step guide.\u00a0 Apologies for all of these caveats but there is no official support to get it working although if you drop me a line I\u00a0 am always happy to help if I can.\u00a0 This is a hobby for me and is just an experiment in sharing my own projects with others.\u00a0\u00a0 You are welcome to <a href=\"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/home\/projects\/bob\/\">download the files <\/a>and get the PCB made yourself &#8211; it is very easy to do these days. Just forward the zip file to a PCB fabricator of your choice like\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eurocircuits.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Eurocircuits. <\/a>You could even sell them if you like !<\/p>\n<p>Parts included<\/p>\n<table width=\"117\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"49\">C1<\/td>\n<td width=\"68\">100u<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>C2,C3<\/td>\n<td>100n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>C4<\/td>\n<td>1n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>C5<\/td>\n<td>0.22u<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>D1,D3<\/td>\n<td>Green LED<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>D2<\/td>\n<td>Red LED<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Q1, Q2<\/td>\n<td>MOSFET<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R1<\/td>\n<td>Option<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R2, R9<\/td>\n<td>1.2K<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R3<\/td>\n<td>Option<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R4<\/td>\n<td>Option<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R5<\/td>\n<td>100K<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R6<\/td>\n<td>24K 1%<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R7<\/td>\n<td>62K 1%<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>R8<\/td>\n<td>22K<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>U1<\/td>\n<td>LTC4368<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>PCB<\/td>\n<td><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A blank unpopulated pcb and all components necessary to make a working BOB.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":363,"template":"","meta":[],"product_cat":[18],"product_tag":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-375","1":"product","2":"type-product","3":"status-publish","4":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"product_cat-bob","7":"product_shipping_class-pcbplus","9":"first","10":"outofstock","11":"taxable","12":"shipping-taxable","13":"purchasable","14":"product-type-variable"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/product\/375","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/product"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/product"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/363"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=375"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"product_cat","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/product_cat?post=375"},{"taxonomy":"product_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gm4wzg.co.uk\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/product_tag?post=375"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}